Advice on Painting Exterior Woodwork

Painting Exterior Woodwork

Exterior woodwork and exterior woodwork coatings such as paint and stains, is, by nature, less hardwearing and is more prone to the effects of fluctuating weather conditions than masonry and brickwork. For this reason, exterior woodwork coatings require more maintenance than bricks and mortar.

Exposure to direct sunlight, extreme temperature changes over the seasons, wet and dry rot, together with normal wear and tear, can all lead to a mixture of problems and give cause for a breakdown of paint and coating surfaces. This is not good! Aesthetically, paint brightens and gives colour and character to our homes, but more importantly it protects our woodwork, part of the very fabric and structure of our homes.

When exterior paintwork breaks down and the wood is left exposed, rot will quickly set-in, making repair necessary. The longer it is left, the more rapid the deterioration, the bigger and more costly to put right. Five years is generally thought to be the re-coat period for outside painted woodwork. That's assuming the very best quality paint has been used and under the right conditions. All surface problems with existing paintwork should be corrected before applying new paint. New timber should always be painted in the manner recommended by the manufacturer, e.g. number of coats and drying times, etc.

As usual, the byword here is Preparation together with the right tools, the correct paint (or stain), and consideration of safety.

Preparation

Painting over existing paintwork should only be carried out following a thorough visual check for paint defects and signs of wear and tear. Where there is no evidence of break down of the existing paint surface, simply wash down thoroughly all surfaces to be painted with a detergent or sugar soap solution. This will remove traces of grime and grease and dirt, and will help promote a better bond of the different paint materials.

Doorframes and window frames can rot following a breakdown of the paint system. Where this is the case, the rotten area of wood must be removed, and some form of filler material added prior to painting. Where the damage has been slight and the depth of repair only moderate, then a good quality all purpose wood filler should do the job. For larger areas, where it has been necessary to remove larger chunks of timber, and to a greater depth, then heavy duty two pack filler, the kind used by professionals, should be used. Both types may be sanded down once hard, and both will generally take paint or stain covering.

Wood preservative pellets are an effective way of further preservation and treatment of damp or susceptible exterior wooden structures and fittings. Drilling a series of small diameter holes adjacent to areas of previously rotted or damp timber, and inserting these preservative pellets, will, due to the slow release of wood preservatives, help extend the life of the timber and stave off further rot.

Where damage is superficial, such as flaking or blistering to the existing painted surface, repair to an acceptable level for painting is pretty straightforward. Using a scraper and some abrasive paper, simply rub down until a sound background is achieved. Feather the edges between the different levels of paint, so the transition is smooth and not stepped, with abrasive paper. Where it is necessary to scrape or rub down area to bare wood, make sure you apply a coat of wood primer to these patches. Overlap slightly; it's not a problem.

Once the surfaces for painting are prepared, we are ready to start. Stop. Make sure that, as best as possible, you cover areas surrounding your painting activities with dust sheets, or cut down pieces of large cardboard boxes. Paint spilt on brickwork and paving can be a nuisance to remove. Never work at height during windy conditions, it can make ladders, steps, or scaffolding unstable and unsafe. Balance can be difficult to maintain. Also, always wear appropriate personal protective equipment during painting. Wear overalls or old clothing and footwear. Eye protection is an important point to remember also, especially when sanding down or cutting wood. High winds will also kick up dust, and can spoil all your hard work. Better stop for awhile; put the kettle on.

Continue reading with Part 2 by clicking here.

Article Creation Date: 09/12/2011 16:48:56