Exterior woodwork and exterior woodwork coatings such as paint and stains, is, by nature, less hardwearing and is more prone to the effects of fluctuating weather conditions than masonry and brickwork. For this reason, exterior woodwork coatings require more maintenance than bricks and mortar.

Exposure to direct sunlight, extreme temperature changes over the seasons, wet and dry rot, together with normal wear and tear, can all lead to a mixture of problems and give cause for a breakdown of paint and coating surfaces. This is not good! Aesthetically, paint brightens and gives colour and character to our homes, but more importantly it protects our woodwork, part of the very fabric and structure of our homes.

When exterior paintwork breaks down and the wood is left exposed, rot will quickly set-in, making repair necessary. The longer it is left, the more rapid the deterioration, the bigger and more costly to put right. Five years is generally thought to be the re-coat period for outside painted woodwork. That's assuming the very best quality paint has been used and under the right conditions. All surface problems with existing paintwork should be corrected before applying new paint. New timber should always be painted in the manner recommended by the manufacturer, e.g. number of coats and drying times, etc.

As usual, the byword here is Preparation together with the right tools, the correct paint (or stain), and consideration of safety.

Preparation

Painting over existing paintwork should only be carried out following a thorough visual check for paint defects and signs of wear and tear. Where there is no evidence of break down of the existing paint surface, simply wash down thoroughly all surfaces to be painted with a detergent or sugar soap solution. This will remove traces of grime and grease and dirt, and will help promote a better bond of the different paint materials.

Doorframes and window frames can rot following a breakdown of the paint system. Where this is the case, the rotten area of wood must be removed, and some form of filler material added prior to painting. Where the damage has been slight and the depth of repair only moderate, then a good quality all purpose wood filler should do the job. For larger areas, where it has been necessary to remove larger chunks of timber, and to a greater depth, then heavy duty two pack filler, the kind used by professionals, should be used. Both types may be sanded down once hard, and both will generally take paint or stain covering.

Wood preservative pellets are an effective way of further preservation and treatment of damp or susceptible exterior wooden structures and fittings. Drilling a series of small diameter holes adjacent to areas of previously rotted or damp timber, and inserting these preservative pellets, will, due to the slow release of wood preservatives, help extend the life of the timber and stave off further rot.

Where damage is superficial, such as flaking or blistering to the existing painted surface, repair to an acceptable level for painting is pretty straightforward. Using a scraper and some abrasive paper, simply rub down until a sound background is achieved. Feather the edges between the different levels of paint, so the transition is smooth and not stepped, with abrasive paper. Where it is necessary to scrape or rub down area to bare wood, make sure you apply a coat of wood primer to these patches. Overlap slightly; it's not a problem.

Once the surfaces for painting are prepared, we are ready to start. Stop. Make sure that, as best as possible, you cover areas surrounding your painting activities with dust sheets, or cut down pieces of large cardboard boxes. Paint spilt on brickwork and paving can be a nuisance to remove. Never work at height during windy conditions, it can make ladders, steps, or scaffolding unstable and unsafe. Balance can be difficult to maintain. Also, always wear appropriate personal protective equipment during painting. Wear overalls or old clothing and footwear. Eye protection is an important point to remember also, especially when sanding down or cutting wood. High winds will also kick up dust, and can spoil all your hard work. Better stop for awhile; put the kettle on.

Continue reading with Part 2 by clicking here.

When painting exterior woodwork we'll generally be using a paintbrush. Sprays and rollers won't be much use when we are tackling doors, windows or fascias. Painting masonry and brickwork requires a brush (or could be spray or roller) that is tough and extremely hardwearing to deal with rough and abrasive textures. Woodwork is a bit different; here we want a good and fine finish. Two things on the subject of brushes; always buy the best you can afford, and always clean and store correctly after use. Secondly, cheap alternatives will not serve so well or for as long, and will generally not give as good a top coat as that from a quality brush. Professional painters and decorators know the importance of using quality paint brushes , and in fact will only use a new brush after it has been used for either priming or under coats, first, and for a period of time. This serves two purposes. Firstly, it ensures the removal and weeding out of loose bristles, which can be most irritating when glossing, and secondly, it wears and hones the bristles, necessary when cutting in, and areas where a deft hand is required.

Types of Paint

There are basically two types of paint suitable for painting exterior woodwork; oil based and water based.

Water based paints , such as acrylics give off a minimum of irritant vapours, and dry quick, but are not as penetrating or have the adherence properties as oil based paints , which are considered by many to have a longer lifespan. However, with modern acrylic retardants the penetration of water based paint is greatly improved these days. When painting new wood, it can come down to a matter of preference and cost. Both products have come a long way in recent years; both do the job they are supposed to. When painting over existing paint work always apply the same paint as already in-situ, either water based or oil based, but do not mix the two! Water based paint will not adhere to an oil based painted surface. It will very quickly just flake, and peel away. Whichever paint system is decided upon, the procedure of application will be very much the same, and it¦s just a question of compatibility. Assuming surface preparation is correct, there will be a coat of wood primer , followed by an under-coat, and finally a gloss finishing coat. Always read the data sheet of the paint products you use.

Painting Doors

Exterior doors are usually subject to more wear and tear than say, an upstairs window frame, and may therefore require more care and attention than just once every five years or so. Although exterior doors are usually a lot stronger and heavier than internal doors, without fairly regular maintenance they can deteriorate quickly if neglected. Exterior doors are generally expensive, and so it is well worth looking after them. An area particularly prone to the effects of weather is underneath the weatherboard at the bottom of exterior doors. The easiest way to paint an exterior door is to remove it from its hinges and rest it between trestles or some other from of work-mate. This is a lot more convenient, and involves less stretching or bending. This method also helps prevent sagging of the paint. With panelled doors you'll find it easier if you work to a system; a sequence of stages.  

• Start by painting the panels, from left to right, and from top to bottom.
• Then, paint the vertical members, working from top to bottom.
• Paint all cross members.
• Paint both long edges.
• Paint thoroughly the weather board, ensuring 100% coverage of all edges and crevices.
• Finally, paint the doorframe. 

When painting flush doors, ensure a good, even coverage to each coat of paint you apply, starting from the top, working left to right. Focus on a small area of the door at a time. Typically, for a flush door, use a good quality 50mm professional brush . Never overload the paint brush! It will be no quicker, especially with top coats, and can in fact be detrimental to the quality of the finish. At best you'll merely waste paint, at worst, you'll spoil the job. Working in a methodical manner, through the various coats, from primer to undercoat, to top coat, in accordance with manufacturer's guidance, should result in a self administered pat on the back at a job well done. Paint the door first, finish the job by then painting the door frame.

Continue reading with Part 4 by clicking here.

Painting Windows    

In terms of painting exterior timber, windows generally fall into two main categories; Sash windows, and casement windows. The former slides up and down, the latter folds out.  Each, due to design is different, but from a painting point of view, not so. But both have one thing in common; they can be fiddly and time consuming, so start early in the day if you want to close the window before retiring for the night.  

Both painting and preparation time will be longer with windows. There are so many areas of small cross sections, so many nooks and crannies; and all to contend with whilst trying to avoid getting paint on the glass. A window guard and masking tape are handy items to have around when painting window, that and a damp cloth soaked in either water or thinners, depending on the paint being applied. The neater you leave the coat you're applying, the easier the next coat will be, the better the finished product.  

With casement windows the suggested sequence of painting could be:  

• Start with the smallest opening light; paint first the edges and then frame rebates using a 25mm paint brush.
• Then, carefully paint the beading up to and around the glass. Paint also the vertical window bars at this time.
• Paint the horizontal window bars, and outer casement. Ensure good coverage to all areas. Be vigilant for runs.
• Paint finally the window frame itself. You'll need to keep the casements slightly open for this.
• The final bit is the window sill.

Sash windows, because of their design look are difficult to paint, but again, follow a determined sequence of steps, and you will ensure complete coverage, with the minimal risk of runs. With this type of window, if the paint on the runner is sound and undamaged and you are not thinking of a colour change, then do not over paint this area. This can lead to the window jamming, making it difficult to open and close.  

• Firstly, raise the inner sash to almost the top of the frame, and lower the outer sash roughly halfway down the frame. Paint the top half of the inner sash; the beading, the glazing bar (vertical member) followed by the vertical and horizontal rails. If you are painting the runners, then paint also the top external section.

• Next, lower the inner sash to just slightly open, and raise the top sash to the top, but not fully. Now paint the beading and putty, and finish painting the inner and outer sashes.

• Finish completely the outer sash, the glazing bar, the horizontal and vertical rails. If you're painting the runners, then finish off the outer runner.

• The final stage is the window frame and window sill.

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Martin was always good at woodwork at school but never followed it through. "I've always enjoyed creating things and repairing broken things, so it seemed a natural choice to use my skills and interests when I set up in business for myself." Not only is Martin a carpenter, you can look to him for a wide range of services, such as decorating, tiling, replacing windows, laminate, and hardwood flooring.   

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